NEVER WORK UNDER A CAR THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A FLOOR JACK.
1. Jack up the front of the car. Place a jack stand, or cribbing under the pinch seam or subframe and remove the front wheel & tire.
2. Remove the four - T25 fender liner screws from the rear of the liner.
3. Remove the six more - T25 fender liner screws in front. Then pull out the fender liner and foam block.
4. Peel the insulation off the back side of the fender liner. This won't be reused.
5. Place some painters tape on the fender to protect the paint. Cut out the placement template (if installing on MK7 Gti/R/golf).
6. MK7/7.5 specific - Use the placement template to locate the fender vent front to back. The two pointed edges should be touching the rear edge of the front fender. The bottom arc will follow the fender stamp line.
7. Tape the position template in place (mk7 only). Then set the cutting template on top.
Do any micro adjustments as needed to get an even gap between the vent and the stamp line of the fender.
Tape the cutting template in place, and cover in clear packing tape.
8. Center punch the bolt holes and inner radius holes of the cut out. A spring loaded center punch is preferred so you do not deform the metal around the punch.
9. Drill the bolt holes. Drill slowly, the sheet metal is very thin.
10. Drill the inner radius holes. Drill slowly, the sheet metal is very thin.
11. Prep the area. Cover your shock/strut shaft, and windshield with a welding blanket, cardboard or plywood to protect them from sparks. Wear safety glasses, or preferable a face shield. Have a fire extinguisher nearby. Cut the inside edge of the template with a cut off wheel on a die grinder, panel saw, rotary tool or angle grinder. Now you can peel off the cutting template. Leave the painters tape in place. Use a file, or flap disc to clean up the bur on the back side of the fender from the drilling and cutting.
12. Touch up the paint on your fender. We suggest a metal enamel spray can. It will not be visible, so black is a good option. Spray it into the cap, and use a small brush or cotton swab to apply the paint to the cut edge. Allow it to dry for 15 minutes. Apply a second coat.
DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. You will end up with rust streaks after rain or washing your car.
13. Remove the painters tape on the fender. Place the trim ring on the outside of the fender, use a piece of tape to hold it in place to ensure you don’t scratch the paint. Slide in the two center bolts to align it, then place the vent fin panel on the inside of the wheel well. The fin panel is driver/passenger side specific. Select the panel that will have the rear of each fin protruding out from the car. Use two nuts to secure both parts.
14. Install the remaining bolts, working out from the center in both directions, install the nuts finger tight. As you work towards the edge, the panels will need to be pressed together to follow the contour of the fender.
After all bolts are installed, start at the center two bolts, and tighten them down using a ¼” drive ratchet until the fender vents are sitting tight to the fender sheet metal. We use nylock nuts to ensure the hardware doesn't back-off over time. Do not overtighten, stainless hardware can be stripped with excessive force. Work your way outwards until all of the hardware is tightened.
15. Trim your fender liners. Cutting this center section out is adequate. Measure 5” in from the outside edge, and use the notches at the fender screw holes as a start and end point. Use a square to connect the edges. This doesn’t need to be perfect. We are just retaining the fender screws, and providing enough space for the vents to function. A cut off wheel, or jigsaw with a wood/plastic blade works best to cut these.
16. Reinstall the fender liners with the 10-T25 screws (refer to step 2-3).
Reinstall the wheel, and lower car back on to ground. Torque the lug nuts.