Remove the two screws on the rear edge of the bumper at the rear tire. Pull back the fender liner. Unbolt the screw that goes up into the corner of the rear fender. repeat on both sides

Remove the screws on both sides of the car that hold the lower edge of the bumper/valance to the bracket inside the bumper cover - near the exhaust tip - this bracket is painted the body color (Image shows cover removed for better visibility).

Remove the plastic screws that hold the center of the valance to the body. 

Pry off the tail light cover. 

Remove the bolts. 

Pull off the tail-light and unplug. The outside edge is retained with a grommet. set aside. 

Remove the bumper cover. Have something to hold the bumper up as you remove it (milk crate, cribbing, jack stand). Start at one side and work your way across. There are clips under the tail light, along the fender, and across the back. 

Remove the 2 screws inside the decklid that hold the plastic panel in place. They are inside the handle pockets. Pop off the panel. There are sheet metal clips around the perimeter. 

Apply some painters tape above and next to the license plate to protect your paint and allow for marking holes. Hold up the plate bracket. Place a plastic spacer between the bracket and vertical face of the decklid to set the position front to back (tape it in place). You can use tape, or clamps to hold the bracket in place. Doing this step with the decklid upright is helpful. 

Center the bracket. Measure the distance between the outside edge to each tail light to ensure you are centered. Your measurement may differ than the number we have shown (due to the revisions of this plate). Mark your hole positions. 

Mark the two center holes. Drill each hole to 7/16", and install a M8 rivnut.  

Bolt the bracket onto the car. Mark your outer holes, then drill and install a rivnut. 

Apply tape from the top of the decklid to the bottom where the upright will sit. 

Install the plate bracket onto the car with M8 x 30 bolts. The bolt goes through the bracket, through the thinner aluminum spacer, and into the rivnut. 

There should be a gap between the plate bracket and the mounting surface of the decklid - shown in image. 

(We include a backup thicker spacer to use for adjustment later if needed).

Apply tape to the uprights near the center bolt position. This will protect the powder coating during the test fitting steps.

Install the uprights onto the bracket. Be gentle to avoid potentially bending the rivnut mounting points. 

Measure and mark center of the impact bar. Strike a line on the bar, or on tape. We ended up at 54 cm or ~21.25". Measure from both sides to ensure your mark is centered. This will ensure the wing bracket is centered and set the uprights vertical to the ground. 

NOTE! This assumes the impact bar is centered between its mounting points on the car. There is a 5-8mm range for it. If you notice an upright is not vertical in later steps, loosen the impact bar bolts to the body (4 on each side), and shift the impact bar left or right to center it on the car and level it to match the ground. Then retighten the bolts.    

Hold up the lower bracket to visually see where it will sit. You will need to trim back some of the bumper support plastic to allow clearance. Only cut the thin curved sections out. An oscillation tool with a wood cutting bit works well on this. 

Place the lower bracket onto the impact bar. Install the hand knobs through the lower bracket, into the upright, and put on the rivnut backer plates to hold the lower bracket onto the uprights. Just snug these up to sandwich the assembly together at this point. 

Center the middle hole in the lower bracket over your center mark on the impact bar. The bracket needs to sit flush on the impact bar, if you push it too far forward, it may not sit flat due to the stamping shape. Check your position in the next step before drilling!

Check to ensure the lateral support clevis on the upright is siting flat on the top edge of the decklid. 

If it is not, we have 2 adjustment points. Triple check these points at this step before proceeding. 

1. Move the lower bracket forward or back on the impact bar.

2. Adjust the bolts in the plate bracket that connect to the upright. If you don't have enough adjustment here, you can swap the spacers between the decklid and the plate bracket to shift it further down.  

The lateral mounts need to be flush on the top edge of the decklid. 

The lower bracket on the impact bar needs to be flush along its length. 

Once you are happy with the position, drill the center hole in the impact bar and install a bolt. 

Repeat for the 4 outermost holes in the lower bracket. Drill a hole, then install bolts. 

Then drill the last four holes into the impact bar. Install the corner brace, and bolt in place. 

Double check that the clevis is still sitting flat on the surface of the decklid. 

Measure the outside dimension of the uprights at the lower bracket, then compare that to the width at the top of the upright. We want to confirm the uprights are parallel. 

Trace around the outside of the clevis to mark its position on the decklid. 

Remove the uprights. Mark an "X" inside your mark around the clevis. Use this X to find center. 

• Drill an 8mm hole (11/32"). 

• Touch up paint! 

• Repeat on the other side. 

Reinstall the uprights onto the car. You can remove the tape on the inside of the upright, and where the clevis will mount. 

Apply blue threadlock onto the silver flange button head bolt. Reach inside the decklid, and thread the bolt through the decklid, into the clevis. tighten this until it pulls the clevis flat to the decklid. The edge of the clevis will not follow the spoiler seam because the hatch has a subtle curve along the length. 

Unbolt the lower bracket from the impact bar and remove it. 

Reinstall the bumper cover onto the car for mock up. Do not install screws. 

Here is a picture of our end goal for reference. A slot that is slightly wider than the lower bracket to allow clearance without rubbing. 

Apply tape onto the bumper cover under the uprights. We will use the uprights to mark our slot in the bumper cover. 

Run a pen or marker along the wear puck on the bottom edge of the upright. This will be our inner reference (this is where the lower bracket inner face will sit when tightened to the upright). 

Tip: You can hold a ruler up against the wear pad to transfer your position down onto the back surface of the bumper to help in the next step. 

Our goal is to strike a line like this. It should go the length of the top surface, and wrap down the back surface of the bumper (no tape shown on bumper):

Measure down from the angled part of the bumper and mark 55mm (~2.125"). This will be the bottom of your slot (for a first test fit). 

Using the red line as our scribing line from the previous step - 

1. mark 1/16" inward, from the red line to set the inside of the slot (blue). 

2. Then mark 1/4"-3/8" outward of the red line to establish the outside edge of our slot (green).  

3. We will cut from the blue line to the green line. The red strike mark was just for reference. 

4. You can use a drill bit to set the bottom of the slot, to achieve a cleaner appearance. 

The slot should extend all the way to the edge of the bumper cover so you can reinstall the cover easily. 

Reinstall the bumper cover. Reinstall the edge support screws, rear valance plastic inserts, and the fender liner screws. You can also reinstall the taillights now. 

Hang the wing onto the uprights. Put a washer on the long M6 bolts first, slide a bolt into the rear holes in the the AOA mount on each side (so the head is towards the outside of the car). Add the plastic washer, then align it with the upright. Add a second washer on the inside, and the nut. Now install the front bolt at your desired position. These are stainless nyloc nuts. They just need to be tightened enough to pull the assembly together. You shouldn't be able to spin the washers by hand.